Dry cells
On flooded/tubular banks, electrolyte that is not topped up exposes the plates — permanent, irreversible damage.
A lead-acid bank is only as good as its upkeep. A little routine care — or a proper maintenance contract — routinely adds years of reliable backup and defers a costly replacement.
On flooded/tubular banks, electrolyte that is not topped up exposes the plates — permanent, irreversible damage.
A charger set too high boils the battery dry; too low leaves it chronically undercharged. Both shorten life fast.
Loose or corroded terminals add resistance, heat, and voltage drop — and can fail exactly when you need backup.
Every few degrees above room temperature roughly halves lead-acid life. A hot, unventilated cupboard is a battery killer.
No tools beyond a cloth and, for flooded banks, distilled water. If anything here looks off, call us before it becomes a dead bank.
A swollen case or any wetness means stop and call — do not keep using it.
Clean off any white/blue powder; make sure every connection is snug.
Warm during charging is normal; hot to the touch at rest is not.
Use distilled water to the marked level — never on sealed SMF.
If backup time is dropping month on month, the bank is ageing — plan ahead.
The instrument-level work that actually predicts and prevents failure — done on a schedule, on record.
We measure each unit under load to find the weak one before it drags down the whole string.
We verify the charging profile is right for your battery type — the fix that quietly saves the most banks.
A real discharge test tells you the true backup you have left, not the number on the label.
Inherited a bank with no service history? Put it on a Propel AMC. We assess its current health, tell you honestly what’s left in it, and keep it running — no obligation to have bought from us.
If backup time is slipping, this shows how far. A big gap usually means it’s time for a professional health check — often before a full replacement is due.
Open the full tool ›Voltage & Ah are printed on the battery label — e.g. “12V 150Ah”. Add up the voltage across the series string for system voltage; count the batteries.
The kVA rating on your inverter/UPS (e.g. “2.5 kVA”) — usually on the front label or box. Optional, but lets us check it can actually carry your load.
Indicative range · ±15%
At high continuous draw (a motor or AC), lead-acid loses usable capacity fast — this figure already derates ~25%. Lithium (LFP) holds its rating ›
Assumes your inverter can comfortably carry this load.
Your inverter can’t carry this load.
Move the slider once you know your actual backup time.
WhatsApp me this resultYes. We take over the health and maintenance of existing banks, including ones we did not install. We assess current condition first and tell you honestly what is left in it.
A quick owner check monthly, and a professional check a couple of times a year for most business banks — more often for large or hard-cycled installations.
Sometimes. If the cause is bad charging, loose terminals, or light sulphation, real capacity can sometimes be recovered. If the plates are damaged or dried out, we will tell you rather than sell false hope.
No. Tap water minerals damage the plates. Use distilled water only, and only on flooded/tubular batteries. Sealed SMF must never be opened.
Scheduled professional checks: per-cell health, charger/voltage audit, terminal servicing, a load test, and a record of the bank’s condition over time.